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What’s YOUR jewelry crafts wish list?You know the feeling every time you conquer a new jewelry crafts boundary. That’s how it feels when you start making jewelry with real, metalsmith´s tools. Challenge yourself, start making your jewelry crafts wish list come true.
This list of jewelry tools is a bit more expensive than the basic jewelers tools presented earlier.
First Purchase: the jeweler’s bench
There’s nothing as stimulating as buying your jeweler’s bench. It’s such an exciting purchase and clearly indicates your growing interest and passion in the subject. The jeweler’s bench is a wooden workstation specifically designed to meet the needs of metalsmiths. It has several features to store, hold and display your basic tools. It is also built at the right height for healthy working. The pic to the left is the jewelry bench of my teacher, working for over 20 years!
Next Big Purchase: flexible shaft machineThe all time favorite flexible shaft consists of a motor and a hand piece to which many devices such as drill bits, burrs, cutters and sanding disks can be attached. My personal recommendation: FOREDOM SR Series. It is best to mount your flex shaft on a stand above your worktable or bench to keep a wide arch in the shaft. This will let your machine run safely and efficiently. Metal drill bits for jewelry making are specially made for the job. The chuck in the flex shaft is specially sized to accommodate drill bits for jewelry.
Always remember to lubricate the tip of drills with a bit of motor oil to cool it down and to preserve the cutting edges.
Going Serious: soldering torchTo be able to solder you must have heat and this heat must be produced by a flame. A flame comes out from a torch lit by gas. Acetylene is the most widely used gas but you can also use propane.
Other soldering equipment and materialsSoldering must be done on top of a heat-resistant surface. Jewelers have long been using firebricks as the ideal soldering surface. You can also use charcoal, pumice and wire nests. Soldering flux is a substance that promotes the fusion of metals by forming a layer that blocks oxygen. Apply flux to the metal surfaces to be joined to facilitate their union. Be sure to use the appropriate flux for the job your doing. Always clean the metal surface that you will join to guarantee that solder flows.
Solder is a metallic alloy that, when melted, joins metallic surfaces. Different types of metals require the use of different solders. There are several varieties of solder based on the temperature at which they melt, also known as their flow point. Silver solders come basically as easy, medium and hard. Gold solders are identified by their karat.
Before soldering always clean the piece of solder you’re going to use to get rid of any oxides lying around the surface. Pickle is an acidic compound that removes flux and any other oxidized surfaces from soldered metal. This chemical is readily available in jewelry stores. For best results, use pickle that’s been heated in a slow cooker dedicated to this purpose. Make sure you locate it in a well ventilated place or near an air fan because the fumes are quite toxic. Vital for Stone Setting: magnification headbandsMedium range magnification headbands are useful for detail work. They allow the use of both hands and should be comfortable, lightweight and have appropriate magnification requirements. Whenever your stop using them you can swing them up and move around your workspace with them on. When you start stone setting it’s best to also purchase a loupe. A Must Have: the rolling mill
A rolling machine is one of the most important and useful pieces of equipment a serious jeweler should own. It is basically used to reduce the thickness of metal in plate or sheet form, while increasing it in both length and width, or to reduce the dimension of round or square wire. Purchasing a rolling mill is a smart move.
Owning a rolling mill will reduce your dependence on metal suppliers and lower your costs. The machine consists of two rolls mounted vertically one above the other in a parallel horizontal direction. The rolls are made of high-alloy steel, ground and hardened. They are housed in an iron steel frame which can be mounted on a pedestal. Lubricate from time to time the rolls and the gears to avoid rusting.
Independence from Suppliers: wire drawbench and drawplatesWire drawing is used for making wire thinner, changing the section of wire and making tubes. When wire is drawn manually, usually small lengths are processed. Mount your drawplates in a vise protecting the jaws with leather. Before drawing the wire lubricate the whole drawplate to ease the pull. Try to mount this mechanism in a sturdy table. Polishing it all Up: buffing machineBuffing machines are used primarily to polish jewelry. The machine consists of a motor with mounted tapered spindles on the machine axle where you attach the different buffing wheels. Clearly mark each buffing wheel depending on the abrasive used in each. Be very careful when using the buffing machine. Always have your hair tied back and any loose clothing out of the way. Put all your attention while buffing and keep your fingers off the wheels. All this is great. Slowly setting up you workshop is a gratifying experience and a kick start for your jewelry crafts biz. As your jewelry crafts grow ever more complex and interesting you’ll start needing specialized tools. Learn how to custom make your own tools for your unique jewelry crafts designs.
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